high by the beach meaning

Relatively straight, steeper, cusped high tide beach, with a low gradient concave, featureless, wide (averages 400-500 m) intertidal zone. Straight beach composed of medium sand with moderate to steep beach face and cusps. See: Shore nourishment, Artificial nourishment.

A submerged shore parallel embankment of sand or gravel built in the breaker zone due to the action of breaking waves and cross-currents. See: Dynamics of mud transport , Sediment deposition and erosion processes, Characteristics of muddy coasts. Artificial beaches will be exposed to wave action and will evolve to a stable plan and profile shape. Beach material often originates from erosion of nearby cliffs or is supplied by gravel rivers draining nearby mountains. See: Ocean and shelf tides, Tidal motion in shelf seas. The offshore zone is not clearly delimited. Cusp patterns are a common beach feature.

Platform beaches abut the base of the backing cliff and extend out across the platform, but are rarely to the outer edge. Bedload transport refers to sediment transport by rolling and saltating sediment grains over the seabed. Tidal inlets: The entrance to estuaries on sandy shores that have formed where sand barriers or spits enclose bays. In the boundary layer, fluid momentum is dissipated through transfer from the large-scale flow pattern in a cascade process to increasingly smaller turbulent flow structures. The maximum onshore elevation reached by a wave, relative to the wave-averaged shoreline position. Any activity likely to alter the physical nature of the coastal zone in any way, including construction of buildings and works, the deposit of waste or other material from outfalls, vessels or by other means, the removal of sand, sea shells, natural vegetation, sea grass and other substances, dredging and filling, land reclamation and mining or drilling for minerals, but excluding fishing activities. Exposure: The degree to which a coast is exposed to wave energy and ocean swell. Incident waves generally arrive in groups, corresponding to the superposition of short-wave trains with slightly differing wave lengths and frequencies.

Oscillation of a semi-enclosed water body caused by incoming long-period waves (periods typically in the range 200-2000 s).

According to the UN Convention on the Law of the Sea, every nation has a continental shelf extending no more than 200 nautical miles from the nation's coastline. The overall tendency is that the bars are moving seawards during storm wave conditions and landwards during conditions dominated by smaller waves and swell.

There can be several rows of bars. Other common names for wetlands are bogs, swamps and marshes.

See: Active coastal zone.

A densely vegetated coastal ecosystem situated in the upper coastal intertidal zone between land and intertidal mudflats, or bordering directly open saltwater or brackish water if mudflats are absent. Mixed sand/gravel: Consists of: (1) poorly sorted mixtures of sandy and gravelly sediment, or (2) alternatively there is a clear distinction between the textural type between the upper and lower foreshore. A shoreline undulation with a wavelength in the range of a few hundred meters to a few kilometers, see: To ensure the development activities in the coastal area follow an overall land use plan and a general environmental policy; To ensure the development activities in the coastal area do not cause to or aggravate erosion; To ensure that development activities do not occur in sensitive areas; To ensure that erosion control techniques are cost-effective and socially and environmentally acceptable. Growth (vertical and/or horizontal) of morphological features (beach, bar, dune, sand bank, tidal flat, salt marsh, tidal channel, etc.) Occur when the tide range is between 3 and 15 times the wave height and the wave height is <0.3m. The rip opening in the breaker bars will often form the lowest section of the coastal profile; a local setback in the shoreline is often seen opposite the rip opening. Three different protection/defence definitions are used as follows: General, wide planning-oriented characterisation: The interface between land and sea, defined as the part of the land affected by its proximity to the sea (influence of marine processes), and the part of the sea affected by its proximity to the land (influence of terrestrial processes). Often a distinction is made between dissipative and reflective beaches. Coastal zones around the world are shaped in highly diverse ways. This type of sediment transport occurs under strong wave action (wave orbital velocity greater than 1 m/s), where bed ripples are flattened out. Such plains may also develop during sea level regression and during sea level transgression as long as there is a significant sediment supply. Tombolo: An accretionary feature comprising sand or gravel beach sediment developed by refraction, diffraction and longshore drift to form a 'neck' of land connecting a coast to an offshore island or breakwater.

See: Infragravity waves. Because of this comprehensive scope the term Integrated coastal zone management (ICZM) is more widely used than CZM. No waves unless strong onshore winds. The deep water angle of incidence is often denoted [math]\alpha_0[/math]. The density is of the order of 2.65 times the density of water.

The water level difference between wave trough and wave crest, or twice the wave amplitude. The beach or shore can be divided in the foreshore and the backshore. The landward decrease of [math]c_g[/math] results in a landward increase of [math]E[/math], thus in a landward increase of wave height [math]H[/math]. Submarine canyons: Submarine valleys that run across the continental shelf and down the continental slope. Meaning: Recommended swimming area with lifeguard supervision The area is protected by lifeguards. 2017. Under normal conditions a beach berm is formed on the upper part of the foreshore, and over the backshore during severe events.

These natural processes, which involve wind, tides, currents, waves, biota, soil and sea-level changes, interact with the materials from which the coastal zone is built; this interaction is called coastal morphodynamics. Streams: Location where a small watercourse emerges onto the coast. twice the tidal amplitude.

See: Shallow-water wave theory. See: Salt wedge estuaries. See Revetments, Seawalls and revetments.

Distinction must be made between incidental coastal erosion and ongoing coastal erosion. and Kristensen, N.E. Foreshore sediment type: The type of sediment that makes up the foreshore. The large-scale flow profile in the turbulent boundary layer has a logarithmic profile. Foredune barrier plains: Systematic beach progradation over time frames of 10s to 1000s of years may lead to the development of wide foredune plains. The speed [math]c[/math] of a wave propagating without frictional losses in shallow water is proportional to the square root of the water depth [math]h[/math] (formula: [math]c=\sqrt{gh}[/math]). The meaning of the Greek word "morphè" is form or shape.

The fluid layer where momentum and energy are dissipated as a result of friction exerted by the seafloor or a nearby hard boundary. Steep cusped high-tide beach composed of medium to coarse sand, which changes at an abrupt break in slope into a low-gradient wide (av.120 m but can range 20-1000 m) low tide terrace composed of finer sand. Downward motion of the land surface. Ocean surface waves with a period of typicallly 25-250 s. They arise in particular through non-linear interactions within wave groups.

The smallest bedforms play an important role in the friction exerted by the seabed on water motion, see Boundary layer, Bedforms and roughness, Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries, Wave ripples, Wave ripple formation. Reflective: Lowest wave energy of the wave-dominated beaches (breakers 0-1 m high).

See: Sand transport. Mud: Unconsolidated sediment of particle sizes that includes silt 0.063-0.004 mm and clay <0.063 mm.

The supply of beach sand for the construction of an artificial beach. Occur in gulfs and behind islands and reefs on the open coast. Upward force experienced by a body of lower density (water body of lower salinity, higher temperature, for example) than the surrounding fluid.

These flocs, with a diameter of 0.1-1 mm, settle much faster than the individual particles and can form a colloidal suspension on the seabed.

Salt marshes usually form in areas that are well sheltered, such as lagoons and estuaries where fine sediments can be deposited. River mouths: Location where a river emerges on the coast. Examples of macrotidal lagoons (also called tidal lagoons) are the Wadden Sea at the Dutch-German-Danish North Sea coast and the Bassin d'Arcachon at the French Atlantic coast. The acceleration experienced by a current due to earth rotation, see: Coriolis acceleration. Dissipative beaches have medium to large intertidal zones which consist of fine (sandy or muddy) sediment. At low tide a wider surf zone has rips (spacing 100-150 m).

The term 'dunes' generally indicates subaerial dunes. This zone extends seaward from the foreshore to some distance beyond the breaker zone. The soil may be composed of deep mud and peat.

An accretionary feature consisting of a long, low lying, narrow strip of gravelly sand (typically up to 3 m high and 40 to 400 m wide), often shelly, deposited in the form of wave-built beach ridge on a swampy, deltaic, or alluvial coastal plain of fine sediment.

See: Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment.

Bars that partially block the openings to minor streams and lagoons are mainly due to littoral drift; these bars are generally referred to as spits. From a morphological and sedimentary point of view it is therefore more logical to consider as upstream estuarine boundary the location where tidal discharges become much smaller than river discharges, instead of the seawater intrusion limit.

Structure (often a bridge) connecting an offshore ship mooring to the coast. One of 50 Cent's Famous Ex Girlfriends Is Calling Him Out, Here's How Lily James Really Feels About Those Dominic West PDA Pics, Jussie Smollett Has a New Job & There Are Photos. Beach composed of fine to medium sand. Moderate rip currents. See: Shallow-water wave theory, Wave transformation. Properly, a mark left on a beach by wave wash at the preceding high water. It can have straight or concave shores and multiple beach ridges marking stages in progradation. The thickness of the turbulent boundary layer corresponds to the size of the largest turbulent eddies generated by friction at the seafloor.

Foredune barriers: Shore-parallel dune ridges formed on the top of the backshore by wind and sand deposition within vegetation.

mainly sand, along the foreshore and the shoreface due to the action of breaking waves and longshore current. Coastal engineering Research Center, Department of the Army, Waterways Experiment Station, 1984.

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